I have a client with a 7 month old Rottie who was doing some serious resource guarding of food bowls, couches, dog toys etc. The owners, who got him at 8 weeks felt that apparently since birth this dog had been very assertive.

The dog had had no structure in this home for 7 months straight, so, unfortunately both dog and family were on a one way journey down the wrong path of life with the potential for some serous harm.

It all came to a head when the wife tried to remove a bone from his space, the dog bit her. So, how did we fix it?

I explained to them how important structure and routine are to dogs, much the same way those two things are important to children. So we started the behavior modification.

Structure: We put the dog on what I call the “learn-to-earn” program. The dog was required to do the obedience commands of sit and down for everything he got and most importantly, things of high value to him such as food, articles of play, space and most importantly, love and affection.

Dog behavior modification for guarding: We began a gradual desensitization of the dog to allow family members and other people to come around his food bowl, his chew bones and his space. He was rewarded for acting appropriately.

Dog behavior modification at the front door: We taught him the obedience command “go to your place”. We then expanded this obedience command to become “go to your place” when he heard the doorbell ring. This fixed the charging of the front door.

The key to our success? The owner’s 110% commitment to working their dog on the behavior modification program and dog obedience commands. I am always so proud of my clients who recognize that only a serious commitment to working the dog behavior plan will turn their dog around - and it has!

Trust me on this. Consistency and repetition will begin to breed habit in your dog, so keeping structure in his life and your expectations of his behavior high, will be the key.

Tell me what you think!

Either one is acceptable because if done correctly, compulsion training is not done harshly. Which method you choose pretty much depends on the dog and if your dog will not work for food then use positive based compulsion training or clicker training. I say, if the end result is the same, who cares?

Without getting into extended sits, downs, stays or “proofing” your dog around distractions, here’s how I help people start with treat training then, most importantly, progress to not using treats, just using hand signals and voice commands.

Many trainers say that using food treats (inducement) is not good because you always have to carry around food treats to get your dog to perform. What they don’t tell you is what they don’t know! That is simply, treat training is a process of teaching with food at first, then weaning the dog off food treats so that he is performing for you without the treats!

The trick which most people are not taught is the “weaning off” part of treat training. They get stuck with a dog that will only work for food.

Once your dog is successfully performing a sit, start treating every other time, then every third time and begin to get 4 and 5 sits in a row and only treat after the second, third, fourth of fifth time - then off food treats. This is called variable treating.

The other key is to progress to not having food treats in your hand. Dogs burn an image or picture in their mind that the activity of “sits or downs” is something they do with you when you have a food treat in your hand. Dogs can also learn the same concept with you without a food treat in your hand.

Help them with this concept by leaving the treats in your treat bag, zip lock bag or on the counter.

In summary: 1. REWARD with treats each time you shape a new behavior. 2. ONCE you can anticipate the behavior, introduce a verbal command and hand signal and 3. THIS IS THE KEY: start variable treating with no food treats in your hand.
Simple really.

I'm always looking for ways to keep cool, and have come to enjoy rolling around in the grass while on my walks. I'm not sure if it has an effect on my inner temp, but its fun nonetheless. Other than that I find the tile in the kitchen stays pretty cool, so I spend some time there, and I definitely drink a lot more water, though this leads to more walks in the 100 degree weather.....It's a vicious cycle, I know.

Well, if anyone else has any thoughts on how to keep cool in this horrible heat, lemme know.
Be cool,
Prada

Sam went mostly blind. Permanently. Well, first she went deaf. At first, no one knew. They just thought she was getting pig headed in her old age. She was twelve, and a lab, like me. When she responded to hand signals, but not words, they figured it out. I don't really know hand signals. I guess I'll be in trouble in five years.

First she went deaf, then she went mostly blind, then she became incontinent (that means she peed all over, and she was deeply embarrassed by it, and they were mad at her. She hadn't done THAT since she was a puppy!) and then she lost her back legs. At first she was just wobbly, then she started to fall over, then she just couldn't walk. I hear it happened in about a week. The vet couldn't do anything but put her to sleep. So he did.

She had had a good life. I have a good life. There's really no point in worrying about it. As the Spanish say, 'what will be, will be.' Living in the moment is easy. Introspection is hard. I think I smell something baked. I wonder if one of the kids dropped a cookie...

We live in Brooklyn, in a row house near the park. If we all get up early enough on the weekends, a lot of the dogs are running off leash. You couldn't really call them a pack, since almost all the alphas have two legs and they can't be bothered to run. So alpha-for-a-moment is fluid. Mostly we run where our noses take us. Mostly, we don't get to the park, we love to sleep in too much.

But at Midnight, no one is on the street, there are few cars and I often go without the leash. In mid winter it's cold and still. Scents stay close to the ground. I LOVE the snow. Hot pee tunneling down through the snow mound scraped up to clear drive ways. It's a wonderful sound. And searching - the snow covers all kinds of secret, pungent things.

Even in the summer, if we go out late enough, it's cooler than it was during the day. I like the smell of fresh baked sidewalks. And there's no salt.

At Midnight I can go where I like. I can wander front yards, I can follow scents right up to strangers' doors. No one cares. No one knows. It's dark, I'm black. I'm invisible! I move like a shadow in a dream! Ok, except for the big white spot on my chest. And the jingle of my collar. Ok, Ok, and the click click of my claws on the concrete. Mostly invisible. Well, not too visible. Unless you're looking in my general direction.

The point is the late night is full of peaceful wonders. There is a quiet, welcoming darkness, a cool easy breeze, and a feeling of freedom. Try it. Come out and I'll show you.

He gets that he's the lowest member of the pack and will take orders from anybody (probably including the burglar). And he'll do exactly as you ask. For about three ten thousandths of a second. Then he's off after whatever newly distracted him. At least he pees and poops outside.

And out in the yard he's got to stay on a lead or play fetch. Otherwise he leaps the fence in a single bound and explores the neighborhood. But he's obsessive about fetch. Get his tennis ball going and he will return it for hours. One of the guys who writes a training column (Sorry, I don't remember who) said "a tired dog is a happy dog" and "a tired dog is a good dog". It's probably true, we'll never know. He could have added that a GSHP puppy has hours more endurance than you do. Even using a tennis raquette to protect your elbow, etc., this dog can go on way longer than you can.

He's the kind of dog that makes you think "i'll get him an extra long lead, hang it through the car window, and drive him around the block. Fifty times. At twenty miles per hour. Then you think "Hell. The car will probably run out of gas before he does!"

Names have intentionally been left out to protect...................ME!

More than a million puppies will be given as gifts this holiday season. To help new pet parents prepare, Bark Busters, the world’s largest dog training company, has compiled a series of essential tips based on the experience of the company’s worldwide network of dog behavioral therapists.

Tips for the New Arrival
Before you bring home your puppy, have these supplies on hand:

•A crate is an invaluable tool when housebreaking a puppy. It also provides your young dog with a sense of security when you are busy or away. However, never leave a puppy in a crate for longer than 4-5 hours.

•Bedding should be thick enough for comfort and sized appropriately for the breed. Be aware that some puppies that are left unattended for too long may chew their bedding.

•Baby gates serve as a great training tool in that they can be used to block off “restricted” areas of the house and help to teach your puppy what areas are off limits.

•Dog-appropriate toys, like the puppy-sized Kong™, are the smart choice. Although children’s toys look cute, they can prove hazardous. Never use old clothing or shoes as toys; a puppy cannot differentiate between your old and newly bought items. Stick with size-appropriate toys for your breed. Always supervise your puppy when he is playing with toys that contain squeakers as they can be a choking hazard.

•Two dog bowls: one for fresh water and one for quality dog food. Consult your veterinarian for food recommendations.

•A well-fitted collar and leash are a must for training and safety during outdoor excursions. Avoid chain leashes; a soft cotton leash is a better alternative.

•A pet ID tag allows your puppy to find his way home should he roam. You may also want to microchip your puppy at your next vet visit.

•Brushes and dog shampoo will eventually be needed for every breed.

•An odor and stain eliminator is a cleaner you will want on hand for those inevitable toileting accidents.

•A veterinarian should be researched and chosen beforehand. You will want a contact should an emergency arise. Introduce your new puppy early to the vet and learn what vaccinations he will need.

Tips to “Puppy Proofing” Your House and Yard
In addition to the essential supplies mentioned above, ensure your home and yard are safe for the exuberance of a new puppy.

•Remove potential hazards—anything that would make an enticing chew toy—such as power cords, window blind cords, potted house plants, children’s toys, coins, batteries, shoes and clothing, garbage bins, and anything “bite sized” that could be ingested by a curious puppy. Outside, remove bite-size rocks, sticks, fertilizers, gardening tools and equipment. Also, be mindful of toxic household and garage items, such as antifreeze, detergents, mothballs and tobacco products. (See a complete list of dangerous item on our home page at www.BarkBusters.com.)
• Large and unstable objects should be moved out of harm’s way. These objects could potentially fall on your inquisitive puppy as he explores his new surroundings.

•Move anything cherished or breakable to higher ground. Puppy tails have a way of sweeping a coffee table clean.

•Get on your hands and knees—at the puppy’s view—to look for potential problems. If you think an item could be a hazard, remove it. It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Tips for the First Day Home
Your pup will be excited and anxious in his new environment. It is your job to make him feel safe and comfortable.

•Be patient. Although accidents will happen, do not reprimand your puppy during the first 24 48 hours while he is acclimating to the new environment. But do praise him profusely when he does something positive. This will start your both off on the right foot.

•Structure is a must. Have a planned schedule from the day your pup arrives—especially when trying to housebreak. Take your puppy outside frequently, and stay with him so that you know he has toileted.

• Getting acclimated will take him some time. Show your pup where he will be eating, sleeping and toileting. As your puppy adapts to his new surroundings and routine, he will feel more comfortable.

•Naps are important for a puppy. Be sure to give him the space and time he needs to relax. Try not to overwhelm your puppy. He is like a new baby, and will need frequent naps throughout the day.

•Start training early. Dogs are pack animals and seek authority and reassurance from the pack leader. Providing this leadership is key to managing a dog’s behavior. For additional behavior and training tips, please visit www.BarkBusters.com.

Tips for the First Night Home
The first night may prove to be a challenge as puppies often cry and whine throughout the night. Also, he probably will need to go out to toilet. Just as the daytime routine is important, so is the evening routine.

•Use the crate and bedding at night. As difficult as it is, avoid letting your pup sleep with you or any other family member. It could lead to behavior problems down the road.

•Your puppy’s sleeping arrangements should be in a central location in the house. If you let your puppy sleep in your room, you may have trouble catching any shut-eye.

•Tough love should be your motto. Usually, a puppy takes a few nights to feel safe at night. Take him out to toilet every 4-5 hours. Other then that, he will need to get used to sleeping on his own.

•If your puppy still has trouble sleeping at night, hide a ticking clock in his bed. The sound imitates the heartbeat of the mother and can sometimes soothe an anxious puppy. To simulate the warmth of his littermates, place a warm water bottle or oversized stuffed toy in his crate for added comfort.

Tips for the Future
•Picking a trainer can be a daunting or confusing task. Consult your veterinarian or visit www.BarkBusters.com for the best training options for you and your growing puppy.

•Keeping your puppy healthy starts with a visit to a veterinarian. Usually, a yearly exam and the vet-recommended vaccinations will keep your puppy in tip-top shape.

•Exercise your puppy regularly. A walk in the neighborhood or a trip to the park is good for mind and body—for both you and your dog. Be careful not to overdo it with young pups.

•Be consistent. Puppies learn through experience and association. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn and the better he will perform.

About Bark Busters
Bark Busters, the world's largest, most trusted dog training company, started in Australia in 1989 and came to the United States in 2000. Since inception, nearly 400,000 dogs have been trained worldwide using its dog-friendly, natural methods. With 240+ franchised offices in 41 states and more than 400 offices in 10 countries, Bark Busters is continuing its mission to build a global network of dog behavioral therapists to enhance responsible dog ownership and reduce the possibility of maltreatment, abandonment and euthanasia of companion dogs. Bark Busters is the only international dog training company that offers a written lifetime guarantee. Therapists will provide future sessions free of charge if problem behaviors recur, or if any new problems develop. For more information, call 1-877-500-BARK (2275) or visit www.BarkBusters.com, where dog owners can complete a Dog Behavioral Quiz to rate their dogs' behavior.

Bark Busters Winterizing Tips:

Beware of cold temperatures. While many dogs can be safe in outside temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit with proper shelter (see below), puppies, smaller dogs and older dogs should not be left outdoors when the temperature falls below 40 degrees. Shorthaired dogs, such as Chihuahuas and Greyhounds, can become immediately chilled after leaving the warm house, so they will need a sweater to go outside.

Keep older, arthritic dogs inside. These dogs should not be left outside under any circumstances. Escort the older dog outside for toileting and use a leash if the yard has ice or snow. Older dogs can easily fall and seriously injure themselves.

Watch for signs of frostbite and injury. Dogs’ ears, paws and tails are especially susceptible to frostbite. Initially, frostbitten tissue may appear pale or gray in color. The area will be cold to the touch, and hard. As the area thaws, it may become red. In severe frostbite, within several days the tissue will start to appear black. If you suspect frostbite, bring your dog into a warm location and soak the affected area with lukewarm water for about 20 minutes and contact your veterinarian. If your dog plays on ice or hard, frozen dirt, his paws are susceptible to cuts as his paws slide across these rough surfaces. Watch for chewing at his paws during long walk or periods of play. Always wipe your dog’s feet after a walk in the snow to remove iceballs and salt deposits from the road. Salt irritates a dog’s paws and can be toxic if ingested. Use only pet-safe ice melt.

Keep an eye out for hypothermia. If you notice shivering, lethargy, low heart rate and unresponsiveness, bring your dog into a warm area, place a light blanket over him, and call your veterinarian.

Eliminate the possibility of poisoning. Unfortunately, dogs like the sweet taste of antifreeze, which can make cause sickness or death if ingested. Make certain that all antifreeze containers are well out of reach of dogs and thoroughly clean any spills immediately.

Provide a protective shelter. If your dog stays outside much of the time in the winter, make certain that his doghouse meets certain minimum criteria. It needs to be raised a couple of inches off the frozen ground or concrete. The inside needs to have a blanket, cedar shavings or straw, which should be changed frequently to keep them warm and dry. Add a flap to the door, and face the doghouse away from the weather. The size of the doghouse should be large enough so your dog can sit and stand, but small enough so his body heat will be retained in the house.

Supply fresh water. Use a plastic water bowl to ensure the dog’s tongue does not get stuck to cold metal, and change the water often to keep it from freezing.

Provide an appropriate amount of food. If your dog remains active in winter, he’ll burn more calories in the cold—and needs about 10 percent more food to compensate. If your dog becomes less active in the winter, try to keep him from gaining extra weight by cutting back his food and making sure you continue going for walks and playing with him.

Further train your dog during the winter while inside. Dogs that spend less time outside during the winter can become lethargic—or, in some cases, they become hyper. The best way to keep your dog active or to use his excess energy is to cause him to think. Providing 10 15 minutes of training daily on basics such as sit, stay, come, and walking on leash will energize the lethargic dog and cause the hyper dog to be more tired. Providing 10 15 minutes of workout twice per day will be even better. Provide your dog with a Kong or a Buster Cube to keep him active indoors. For a less active dog, make him work for his meal by placing it inside his Kong or Buster Cube.

About Bark Busters
Bark Busters, the world's largest, most trusted dog training company, started in Australia in 1989 and came to the United States in 2000. Since inception, nearly 400,000 dogs have been trained worldwide using its dog-friendly, natural methods. With 240+ franchised offices in 41 states and more than 400 offices in 10 countries, Bark Busters is continuing its mission to build a global network of dog behavioral therapists to enhance responsible dog ownership and reduce the possibility of maltreatment, abandonment and euthanasia of companion dogs. Bark Busters is the only international dog training company that offers a written lifetime guarantee. Therapists will provide future sessions free of charge if problem behaviors recur, or if any new problems develop. For more information, call 1-877-500-BARK (2275) or visit www.BarkBusters.com, where dog owners can complete a Dog Behavioral Quiz to rate their dogs' behavior.

They're basically annoying dogs, yapping, nervous, busy. Sometimes sweet, sometimes mean. The open mouth makes them look like they're smiling. They're bright eyed and perky, so they look intelligent and attentive. The smile makes them seem pleasant or happy.

I guess it's a matter of the dog's personality fitting the human's. I prefer calm, alert, easy going dogs. They can be happy and playful, as long as they're basically calm. That seems to correlate with bigger dogs, like retrievers.